Why the "Right" Litter Box Matters

One of the most common reasons cats eliminate outside their litter box is that the box itself is unsuitable in some way — too small, too covered, in the wrong location, or not cleaned frequently enough. Before assuming a behavioral problem, it's worth evaluating whether the box itself is the issue.

This guide covers what to look for when choosing a litter box, so you can set your cat up for success from the start.

Types of Litter Boxes

1. Open/Uncovered Trays

The classic option. Simple, inexpensive, and widely accepted by cats. Easier to clean and allows good ventilation, which means odor dissipates rather than concentrating inside an enclosed space. The downside is litter scatter and visible mess.

2. Covered/Hooded Boxes

These give cats privacy and reduce visible mess for owners. However, many cats — especially large breeds or cats with joint issues — find them restrictive. The enclosed space can also trap odors inside, which is unpleasant for the cat even if the owner prefers it. If you use a hooded box, cleaning frequency is even more important.

3. Top-Entry Boxes

Cats enter from a hole in the lid. These dramatically reduce litter scatter and are difficult for dogs to access. However, they're unsuitable for kittens, senior cats, or cats with mobility issues. Some cats simply won't use them.

4. Self-Cleaning/Automatic Boxes

Motorized rakes or rotating chambers remove waste automatically after each use. Convenient for busy owners, but come with significant trade-offs: they're expensive, can malfunction, and many cats are frightened by the motor noise. They also require careful monitoring to ensure they're actually working correctly.

What to Look for: Key Criteria

Size

This is the most commonly underestimated factor. A litter box should be at least 1.5 times the length of your cat from nose to tail base. Most commercially sold litter boxes are too small, especially for large breeds like Maine Coons or Norwegian Forest Cats.

If in doubt, go bigger. Storage totes (with a low-cut entry point) make inexpensive and appropriately-sized alternatives to commercial boxes.

Entry Height

The sides should be low enough for your cat to step in comfortably. This is especially important for kittens and senior cats with arthritis. High sides help contain scatter but must be balanced against accessibility.

Number of Boxes

The general rule is one box per cat, plus one extra. A single cat household should have two boxes. This is especially important in multi-story homes — there should be at least one box per floor.

Location

Placement significantly affects use. Cats prefer:

  • Quiet, low-traffic areas where they won't be startled
  • Accessible locations (not hidden behind doors that might be accidentally closed)
  • Away from their food and water bowls
  • Spread across the home, not all clustered together

What to Avoid

  • Boxes with strong fragrances: Scented litter box liners or heavily deodorized boxes can deter cats with sensitive noses.
  • Automatic boxes for anxious cats: The sounds and movements can cause litter box aversion.
  • Boxes that are too small: A cat that can't turn around comfortably in the box will find somewhere else to go.
  • Infrequent cleaning: Most cats prefer a box scooped at least once daily. Dirty boxes are the single biggest cause of litter box avoidance.

The Bottom Line

A good litter box doesn't need to be expensive or high-tech. It needs to be the right size, in the right location, and cleaned consistently. When choosing, think like your cat — not about what looks nice in your bathroom. A box your cat will actually use is always the right choice.